Sat 15/08/09 08:02
and loving it.

Brasov is a charming city. I didn’t know what to expect when I decided to come here, but I can tell you it hasn’t disappointed me at all. The best way that I can explain it is that it feels medieval in the older part of the town. The town can actually be broken into thirds, the ancient or old town, the Soviet era, and the modern age. There is some mingling of the three, but I spent most of my time exploring what can be considered mostly the old town. I really got a sense that I am actually stepping into a medieval town… of course I have to pretend that I don’t see the cars, and have to squint when I look a the shops around the touristy parts, but you get the idea. The one thing that I’m really loving here is the roofs of the houses, they look ancient. I don’t think I have a roof fetish, but for some reason the roofs here are absolutely picturesque with charm.

I only spent a few hours wandering because I think I got sick from something that I ate in Budapest. I didn’t eat that much, but I think what did it was some black berries that I had from a market. I didn’t rinse them off like I usually do, and I think they are what’s giving me the distress. For the record though they were huge and tasted so good. Hopefully I’ll have the energy to head out later on today too. Tomorrow I’m planning on going to Bran, home of Dracula.

Sat 15/08/09 07:25
This has to be an entry by itself…

Okay, here’s the obligatory travel story. You know, I realize that it seems that I speak a lot about the travel part, I guess even more than I speak about the destination, but the travel part can be the hardest or most interesting part that sticks with me. So without further ado, I present the trip to Brasov. the train left Budapest at about six. I get to my cabin and all but one seat is taken, the overheads are packed with luggage, so much luggage that there wasn’t a place for mine. At that point I kind of was resigned to the fact that this was going to suck. That the trip was going to be the worst that I’ve had up to date. I told someone that I needed room for my backpack and that someone was going to have move their things. I guess I may have sounded like a jerk, but all hope was gone and if I was going to be jammed in a cabin with seven other people there wasn’t any way I was going to be holding two packs for 14 hours. I think I gave a description of the cabin in an entry before, but to clarify, these cabins have two rows of seats that face each other. Most cabins hold six people, these hold eight and there is usually only enough leg room for a normal person to put his feet flat on the ground, any further out and you hit the person you’re facing. In a full cabin it’s not a pleasant experience by any means. Anyway, no one is speaking English and it appears that I’ve been placed with a family to make matters worse. All of a sudden someone is trying to take my backpack off, I twist around and say, “No.” As I’m trying turning around, someone else grabs the backpack, and I started to get upset. A lady sitting down sees this and tells the others to leave me alone. They finally make room for me and I sit down, and it turns out that there are only three other people sharing the cabin, the others that were in there were actually seated in the next cabin and were over to talk to the ones in mine. So that’s good, but now the nightmare actually begins. One guy that was evidently not part of the group is from Germany and speaks broken English. At first I think that this is a good thing, but it soon turns out that he just keeps saying the same thing, over and over again, and acts out what he says. For example, he didn’t like border guards so he would say, “Control, phooey.” Then grab his crotch, then lift half of his butt up and point to his butt, then points to his head, and finally waves his hand in the gesture that is best described as, “What can you do?” At first I thought it was funny, but after about the tenth time I was pretty much over the humor. I was so much over it that I got my book out and read about sixty pages, never once looking at him for fear he’s think I was taking a break and it was his opportunity to starting pointing again. J From that point on, the journey got even more bizarre. The German guy finally got off and he was replaced by a very large Syrian man who spoke no English, but seemed like a really nice guy. I finally dozed off and woke up a little bit later to see the Syrian asleep, head back, mouth open, but next to him is another guy in the same position, asleep, head back, mouth open, but he was resting his head on the Syrian’s shoulder. It looked so strange, almost cute in some weird way, and I dozed off again. I woke up shortly afterwards to see another guy slapping the face of the guy who was next to the Syrian. He was really slapping him too, but the guy wouldn’t wake up. He was getting upset though because every time he was slapped he would kick his foot, and since I was facing him, he was kicking my leg. The one dude finally did get the guy up and they both left. I guess all the commotion woke up the two Romanians that were there and they decided in the quiet of the moment to have a conversation… for four hours! They weren’t even trying to be quiet, they just kept talking even after I gave them the “evil eye.” I finally did manage to fall asleep again until the couple was getting ready to leave. I guess they figured that I just magically woke up at the same time that they had to leave the train, so they didn’t even have to pretend to be quiet. I dozed off again, and woke maybe five minutes later to some guy sitting across from me. I swear this guy looked like Dracula. He had dark eyes, dark hair brushed back, and a goatee, I know how stupid that sounds, but maybe because I’d had maybe two hours of sleep in a train traveling though Transylvania that I was open to suggestion, but the guy wouldn’t let me look anywhere without watching me. I’d turn my head and he was staring, I’d look at the reflection of the window, and I could see that he wasn’t looking at me, so I’d turn my head and he’d look at me. I finally, yet again dozed off and I swear I dreamt of vampires. At this point it was getting light, actually it had been light for a while, and I did wake up again not more than ten minutes later, but this time I was fed up so I grabbed my packs and found a different cabin, leaving the Syrian at the mercy of Vlad. :)

So that was the fun part of my trip, actually when I write about “Vlad” it does seem almost fun right now. When I woke up the train was traveling through rolling hills, some with trees and some with just grass. Every now and again we’d go by houses that looked right out of the 19th Century, complete with haystacks. The weather was cold and although it wasn’t raining, there was a mist/fog that was sticking the some of the hills. It really made for the perfect trip into Transylvania.

Fri 14/08/09 02:05

I’m going to combine two entries in to one here, so the drivel won’t overload you. I left Sarajevo early in the morning, got my seat on the train and promptly fell asleep. For a while I thought that I was going to get the whole cabin to myself, but a woman came in and then a small family. Not to worry though, within an hour everyone but the woman and me were gone. Her name as I would eventually find out was Elizabeth, and she lives in Canada but back in the early eighties fled Hungary for the West. She really made it a good trip though for me, we talked about everything, drank some Raki (alcohol that tastes like lighter fluid) and in the end she helped me find my way to the hostel. Since she speaks fluent Hungarian she was able to ask for directions and read the signs and all that other stuff that can make finding a location a nightmare if you don’t speak the language. Not really a nightmare, but difficult.

I’ve been in Budapest, Hungary for two nights and one day. The city is really beautiful, very much like Paris in a lot of ways. About the only thing that I’m not too happy with is the weather. It was overcast most of the day yesterday and this morning I woke up to rain, though it’s not raining now. It’s kind of funny that last year I think it rained maybe once in 40 days and this year it seems like it’s rained about half the places I’ve gone.

Budapest is really nice, the Danube splits the two cities, Buda and Pest which combine to create just a wonderful place to explore. Unfortunately though I’ve got to leave this morning for Brasov, Romania. If I remember correctly it’s about an eleven-hour train ride and once I get there I’ll stay two nights. The only reason I’m going is to see Dracula’s Castle. After there it’s off to Bucharest, and then to Kiev and finally Dubai. Time has been going so fast that I’m constantly second guessing myself on the date. Without fail I’ll start to panic and think that I’ve got less time that I actually do, as of today I’ve got one week and two days.

After wandering around yesterday for about six hours I went back to the hostel and tried to take a nap. I didn’t feel really good, mostly because I was tired, but I knew that it was more than just being tired. There’s this cute girl from Australia that’s staying in the same room and when I got back she and I started talking. We ended up talking for about two hours. Not a problem though, she was cute enough that I would still be talking to her if she wanted to. Afterwards though I just couldn’t fall asleep, I ended up laying in my bed for about 5 hours and never did get my nap, and to make matters worse I started feeling really bad. I thought I had a fever and I had to make several quick runs to the bathroom. I feel better this morning, not 100%, but not bad either. As a result I didn’t get to go out and take night pictures of Budapest. The city lights up some of the bridges and most of the big tourist spots, it’s really beautiful and although I did go look at them the first night here, I don’t have any pictures to share. I did try to stay an extra night here, if only to give me the extra time that I need to finish my exploring, but the hostel is booked up.

Tue 11/08/09 15:04

This has been one of those days that I haven’t been very productive. I’m not really sure why, maybe because it rained most of the day, or maybe because I feel like I’ve seen most of the tourist areas and to see any of the other sights I’d have to take a tour, which I wasn’t in the mood for. I did spend a few hours walking around and preparing for the train ride to Budapest tomorrow so it’s not like I didn’t do anything, just not as much as I think I should have.

Tue 11/08/09 02:19
Not bad, actually very nice.

My next destination is Sarajevo, Bosnia and I had to take about four busses to get there, that’s what I was told, in fact it only took three, the first was a two hour trip that started in Tirana. Like I said for me this place was just great, I packed my bags to the bus stop, a little further from where the first bus dropped me off from, and sat down. Over comes three guys that are packing around the area and they are heading the same direction, at least for the next three buses. They were from Germany, and very friendly too, I ended up talking the whole trip with them about traveling, Albania, and life. When we got to the next stop, because it was Sunday there weren’t any buses heading to Ulcinj, Montenegro but we could take a taxi for about 25 euros, lucky again, I got to share the ride with the guys from Germany. From there they dropped me off and I thought I had to go to Podgorica to get a bus to Sarajevo, but they had a bus that went right there that left in a couple of hours. When the bus showed it turned out that I was the only passenger. :)

I’m in Sarajevo now and like it seems with all my bus trips this one ended in just the same way. I arrived in Sarajevo at 4 in the morning to a closed and deserted bus station. The directions to the hostel said that you could see two blue skyscrapers in the distance, and that it was close to them. The problem was, was it had just rained and it was cold enough that I could see my breath and that it was so foggy that I couldn’t see any buildings in the distance,. So the first thing that I did was to put on long pants and the next thing was to try to find a place out of the way until I could see where to go. At six they opened the station and at least I had a place out of the cold. I slept there until about 8 and then started asking people for directions. It turns out that the bus dropped me at a bus station that was about 20 km away from the main station, but nobody could tell me how to get there, one lady did tell me the direction though (and tried to give me money for the bus) and that was all I needed to head out. I walked for about 20 minutes just following the road and ran up on the airport and since I didn’t have any Marks (the Bosnian money) I wanted to find an exchange so at least if I did get lost I could pay for a taxi. It’s a small airport and except for some workers it was empty, there were two USAF people walking around so I went up to talk to them. I don’t know why, but when I see Americans I just like to say hello, I like to say hello to others, but Americans are special. I talked to them a little bit and found out they were actually working with NATO.

Now with money and the weather getting a little nicer I headed out again after about another 20 minutes I got to the tram line and grabbed one headed into town. One lady that spoke English told me that I needed to stay on until almost the end of the line so that’s what I did. Unfortunately, I should have asked her where the central bus station was because when I did get downtown I didn’t have a clue where to go. It’s about 10am now and I’ve had my packs on for about 2 hours, some people gave me good directions, although vague to the bus station and I did find it about thirty minutes later. Unfortunately again, the directions to the hostel that were on the web site did more to confuse me than anything else, I ended up walking around for another hour until I did finally find it, only to be told that they didn’t have any beds. See, I made the reservation thinking that with four bus trips that I wouldn’t arrive until tomorrow, so my reservation wasn’t valid yet. So the hostel manager tells me to find the Europa Hotel and right next to it is an information center and they can help me get a room. This lady needs to learn how to do directions, because she tells me that it about a ten minute walk right on the same street of the hostel. Sounds easy huh? Well about thirty minutes later I finally give up and get a bag of potato chips and a water and eat them against the side of the store. I must of looked pretty pathetic too, because as two packers were walking by, I said, “Excuse me.” They ignored me, I said it again, and one of them looks at me and shakes his head no. I’m thinking that was rude, so I said, “Do you speak English?” One of them turns around and in an American accent says, and I still can’t believe it, “I’m sorry sir, we’re not interested.” I actually was so stunned/angry I thought about going after them and confronting them. I wasn’t a beggar… but I guess I know how it feels to be one after the lady at the bus station tried to give me bus fare and then those two asshats. About 300 meters up the road I saw a hostel and found a room. In the end I walked around the city with my packs for roughly six hours. Never did find the Hotel Europa, but no worries I comfy now.

After getting cleaned up, I headed out to see the old town. It’s a little bit touristy, but it still has a lot of charm. There’s lots of old building, and there are a lot of new ones too. From what I’ve heard they are just like Beirut in that they are rebuilding the city after the war, which is evident nearly everywhere. I don’t think a person could miss seeing the buildings not only with bullet holes, but you see the gunpowder marks as well. Some of the buildings even look like they were attacked recently.

From Macedonia I headed for Albania. You know, it seems strange to me to be writing that I have spent time in Albania. Not for any reason dealing with the country, but more for the reason that I don’t think I ever thought that I would be there, for that matter Macedonia and Montenegro seem the same. Having said that though, I’m glad that I did make my way to visit these countries. My time was great in Albania, if it lacked a lot of things to see it made up for in the culture, the people, and for that matter the other tourists, some of which were more friendly than any other place so far. Just like most of my trips lately the bus to Tirana, Albania was at night and the same thing happened when I arrived. What made this trip more fun is that there were some students that I was sitting next to that were really friendly. They were on a weekend journey and all were part of a…a…I’m not really sure what it was, but it was an international school-sponsored internship or something where they went to Macedonia for seven weeks to work and had weekends to travel around, that’s what they were doing when I met them. Like I said they were friendly and I ended up talking to them for a fair amount of the trip. When we arrived in Tirana I had been asleep for about four hours and was awoken by the bus driver telling me that this was where I needed to get off. The group that I mentioned stayed on the bus, so I was a little confused, but even more groggy from having a matter of seconds to grab my stuff and get off the bus. It was about five in the morning when the bus drove away, and except for a few taxi drivers and a couple of left over people that were on the bus, the town was deserted. There was no bus station, I didn’t have a reservation at a hostel, and all the shops were closed, about the only thing I saw was just a round-a-bout. So I started walking. You ever need something to go your way, you know, you just feel like you need some luck? That’s kind of how I felt walking that morning, the good thing is it seemed like every was going my way, not fifteen minutes later I came up to what was obviously the city center. The large round-a-bout with a huge statue in the middle was the giveaway, and to make matters better, there was an open coffee shop. It could have been so easy for me to take a different street when I started walking and ended up miles from where I needed to be so I really do feel fortunate. I went and had a cappuccino to figure out my next plan, that’s when the students that were in the bus came up. They saw the coffee shop and I guess was thinking the same thing. It turns out that the bus took them to the bus station. After my cappuccino I headed out to find a hostel that I hoped would have room for me. It was a ways away but I found it in about twenty minutes. It wasn’t open so I waited for about an hour before someone came outside to go to a grocery store, they told me that no one was there that worked there so I kept waiting. I waited until about nine in the morning, two and a half hours until the owner showed, and what’s better is that they did have room for me. I dropped off my bags and headed out to do some sightseeing. Like I usually do, I just walk around and take some pics, and I’ll post them soon. The city was very nice, not a lot to see or to take pictures of, but it was a city with some style, for example, the mayor wanted to make the soviet style apartment buildings less dreary so he got people to paint the outside of the building with very colorful patterns. It’s amazing some of the patterns that the people came up with. Another thing about Albania was that they like America. It seems that I saw at least fifty US flags hanging in cars, on flag poles, and just about everywhere else. It’s something that I really like to see, mainly because since Bush America and Americans aren’t really regarded too highly.
  
  
What made the day special is that the people in the hostel were really great, the best that I’ve been around in a long time. In fact it had been so long that I was beginning to wonder if something was wrong with me that I wasn’t meeting those type of people while traveling. After walking around I hung out with the people at the hostel, later that evening we all went out for dinner and drinks. Everyone in the group were great, and even the ones that didn’t go to dinner, and if I wasn’t falling behind on my schedule to reach Kiev I would’ve like to stay longer.